Our general rule for
the inclusion of a waterfall is that it must be accessible to most people at
least able to walk two miles on a foot path of moderate difficulty. Rarely we
include a waterfall that is not so accessible but only because its beauty or
uniqueness demands inclusion. And so it is with these three waterfalls in
Havasu Canyon.
There is water in the
desert, - it is just underground where you cannot see it. The Havasu River
basin in northern Arizona is a giant collector. Rain from nearly a hundred
miles away percolates through the softer rock and sand of the Coconino Plateau
until it reaches the dense bedrock below. There, unable to penetrate the rock,
it seeps down until is reaches the Havasu River. The Havasu River, over the
ages, has worn away the underlying rock forming a smaller version of the Grand
Canyon. The collected water for the surrounding desert becomes a mighty flow
and, eventually, drops 100 feet at Havasu Falls, flows on through the canyon
over Navajo Falls (actually a cataract) and finally drops abruptly another 200
feet at Mooney Falls at the North end of the Havasu Canyon. From there, the
Havasu flows a little further to its conjunction with the Colorado River.
All this is on the
Havasupai Indian Reservation. Visitors are welcome - for a $20 fee (plus an
addition $10 per person per night for the privilege of camping). Getting to
the village of Supai is a challange. Getting to the Falls is even more of a
challenge.
If you're westbound on
I-40, take exit 121 (just past Seligman) and follow AZ-66 to the Nelson
turnoff (about 34 miles). Nelson is to your left but you turn right onto the
Reservation highway (marked as 18) and follow it for 62 miles to the rim of
Havasu Canyon.
If you're eastbound on
I-40, take exit 33 and turn left onto AZ-66. Follow 66 to the Nelson
turnoff (about 55 miles). This is about 7 miles beyond Peach Springs. Nelson
is to your right but you turn left onto the Reservation highway (marked as 18)
and follow it for 62 miles to the rim of Havasu Canyon.
The Village of Supai
is reached astride a mule (or walking for the hardier visitors). It is another
8 miles. It takes a long time for a mule to walk 8 miles! The sun is hot and
you better be carrying a couple liters of water. The trail to the falls is
even more rugged. But when you get there you'll see why it was all worth
while. The clear, bluish-turquoise of the river contrasted with the dark
reddish-maroon of the canyon walls, the roar of the falls all underlying the
scent of the water-freshened desert air will become an indelible memory.
For more information -
or to make room and/or camping reservations (required), phone the Supai
Tourist Office at 928-448-2111.
Arizona Outback
Adventures, who conduct extensive outings in northern Arizona, especially the
Colorado River area, has an interesting website at: Arizona
Outback
